Experiencing Havana: Art, Music, Dance and Food

By Ieva Staveckaite

HAVANA’S ART SCENE:

Havana is home to the oldest arts academy in Latin America. Academia de Bellas Artes San Alejandro was founded in 1818 and has since given rise to generations of exceptional talent. Most notably, the Vanguardia- a loose group of painters and sculptors who came together in 1920, rejecting preferences for contemporary, mundane landscapes, instead creating Cuba’s avant-garde.

The easiest way to delve into Cuba’s independent, unique art culture is by visiting the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes in Centro Habana, which holds Cuba’s largest art collection. Spread over two campuses, two blocks apart, the museum is open 9am- 5pm Tuesday- Saturday, and 10am- 2pm on Sunday. Combined entry for the galleries is CUC$8, whereas individual entry costs CUC$5.

The Arte Cubano gallery contains the most comprehensive collection of Cuban art in the world, with an entire section dedicated to Wifredo Lam (or Cuba’s Picasso). The surrealist painter sought to portray Afro-Cuban culture, exploring themes of social injustice, spirituality and rebirth through his work. Look out for Lam’s renowned painting entitled La Silla, which remains permanently on display within the museum. Another work to look out for is Victor Manuel Valdés’ Gitana Tropical, often referred to as the ‘Latin Mona Lisa’.

On display in the Arte Universal building is a variety of paintings, sculptures and ceramics from across Europe, Northern Africa as well as Latin America- with some of the pottery from Greece dating back to as early as 500 B.C. The grand palace, Palacio de los Asturianos, has external ornamentations just as impressive as the international art works laid out within.

On the corner of Plaza de la Catedral, named after Cuba’s most celebrated painter, is the Centro de Arte contemporáneo Wilfedo Lam. The gallery exhibits contemporary art and every three years hosts Havana’s main art festival: Bienal de la Habana. Within the cathedral itself, you can find 19th century frescos by Italian artist Giuseppe Perovanni.

For electrifying ‘happenings’ take a trip to Fábrica de Arte Cubano in Vedado. Set up by Cuban fusion musician X Alfonso, this cultural centre focuses on making art of all types more accessible to the masses. As such, entrance fees are just CUC$2 and interactions with the artists is encouraged. Revolving art exhibits, music stages, graphic t-shirt stands, food and drink concessions are just some of the wide-ranging and innovative features of the Fábrica. Note that the centre is closed for the entire months of January, May, and September, but otherwise is open 8pm- 2am Thursday-Sunday.

Fusterlandia, a surreal folk art wonderland situated in the fishing community of Jaimanitas, was birthed during the 1990s when resident José Fuster took to exploring his whimsical imaginations in his real-world surroundings. The explosion of colour featuring intricate mosaics and murals, now spans over 80 houses and is still growing thanks to the new generation of artists inspired by the neighbourhood they grew up in.

Fuster’s artistic style is often referred to as ‘naïve’ due to its child-like simplicity. His work is heavy with Cuban themes and influences- look out for the numerous Cuban flags, the words ‘Viva Cuba’ painted across eight chimney pots and the allusions to Santería. A taxi from central Havana to Fusterlandia costs between CUC$12- CUC$15.

Surrealist artist Salvador González took to the streets in central Havana to initiate the art project Callejón de Hamel. Roam the narrow back alley adorned in kaleidoscopic murals, sculptures formed out of scrap metal, mosaics and paintings. On Sunday afternoons, dancers hold rumba sessions right out on the alley!

San Isidro, the once industrial district in Habana Vieja, is now the setting for striking Cuban street art. For around five blocks, the facades of houses are decorated with vivid contemporary art, and in place of the old workhouses stand a number of art galleries.

HAVANA FOOD GUIDE:

While the food rationing days of the Special Period have branded Cuban cuisine as dull and lacking in variety, a culinary revolution has swept the nation in more recent years transforming the eating scene in Cuba, and particularly Havana, into something to truly rave about.

Cuban cuisine brings together ingredients from all over Africa, a variety of Caribbean islands and from specific countries such as Spain and France. Thanks to the implementation of new laws allowing private businesses to operate, this fusion of flavours is now readily available to experience in traditional settings known as paladares (private-run restaurants).

The opening of paladares has been a huge advantage not only to Cuba’s natives but to those seeking to taste authentic Cuban food. They are known for their good quality, hearty traditional dishes such as cerdo asado (roast pork served with rice and black beans), as well as their more personal service. Seeking out tasty, satisfying meals as a vegetarian can be difficult in Cuba, as the nation heavily believes meat to be a necessary component to any dish. Your best bet is to dine at a paladre over a state restaurant where ordering off-menu can prove to be a hassle.

Due to the seating restrictions imposed by the government, paladares are usually quite small. While this gives them a homey feel, it also means diners should book in advance where possible or be prepared to wait in a queue.

It is additionally important to note that restaurants in Havana are mostly open from noon-midnight. It is not common to find a breakfast spot in the city, so make sure to fuel up for the day at your casa particular or hotel.

Popular Cuban Dishes to Try:

Tostones- thickly sliced plantains which have been fried, pressed and then refried

Vaca Frita- literally “fried cow”, this dish consists of beef which has been marinated in lime, garlic and salt and then seared until it becomes crispy

Tamales- the Cuban version of a tamale mixes meat into the dough rather than using it as a filling. Following the traditional method, the dough is steamed in a corn husk.

Pernil relleno de Moros y Cristianos- a 2 for 1 deal, this Cuban recipe features an oven cooked pork shoulder, which has been marinated in orange juice, garlic, pepper and oregano and stuffed with another Cuban specialty- rice and beans

Croquetas- battered and fried balls of cheese filled with pieces of ham

Frita- Cuba’s version of a hamburger is a beef patty topped with french fries inside a bun

Street Food:

Whether it’s served from a street cart, a window or a driveway, Cuban street food is a hit and perfect for snacking on when touring the capital.

Mani- freshly roasted peanuts

Chiviricos- fried dough topped with a healthy dose of sugar

Mariquitas- fried plantains

Chicharonnes- pork cracklings

My Foodie Highlights:

El Rum Rum de la Habana

For the best croquetas in all of Havana head down to El Rum Rum located in Habana Vieja! This esteemed restaurant, run by cigar sommelier Osiris Oramas, serves up a range of Cuban specialties while also paying homage to Spanish gastronomy. Fresh and flavoursome paella, soft and juicy steak, hearty seafood stew- these are just a few of the must-try dishes at El Rum Rum. And if the food isn’t enticing enough- the extensive rum cocktail selection should definitely do the trick!

At El Rum Rum I feasted on crisp and delicious croquetas, a main of barbeque glazed ribs accompanied by Moros y Cristianos (rice and beans) and tostones, as well as a rich chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream for dessert.

Doña Eutimia

Situated just off Plaza de la Catedral is Doña Eutimia, an intimate family-run restaurant specialising in home-style Cuban food. A particular hit on the menu is their ropa vieja (pulled stewed beef with vegetables). This Cuban dish has an incredibly interesting origin story attached to it. It follows that one night a father who desperately needed to feed his family shredded up his old clothes and cooked them with vegetables. While praying over the cooking food, the old clothes turned into a meat stew. The name itself, ropa vieja, means ‘old clothes’. Note that Doña Eutimia gets especially busy during dinner service- it is almost impossible to dine here after 7pm without a reservation.

Iván Chef Justo

Named after the accomplished Chef Iván Rodriguez López, Iván Chef Justo propels traditional Cuban flavours to the modern day, providing guests with a fine dining experience.

Iván’s menu is devised of exciting and distinct dishes making it an absolute must-try in the city of Havana! All fresh produce is locally sourced, mainly from markets in the surrounding area. Expect flavour-packed paella, grilled octopus, suckling pig, exquisite lobster, scrumptious tacos and a delightful Cuatro leches dessert.

The restaurant’s charming interior is adorned with vintage adverts, old photographs and movie posters. There are number of dining areas, but the rooftop terrace is by far the most exclusive. Twinkling lights dangle from above, tables are packed in tight and from in between the vines and the leaves Havana’s busy streets continue to buzz with action.

I visited Iván Chef Justo during lunch service. To start my family and I shared a selection of tacos, as well as some croquetas- both were delicious. For my main I had a tender beef stew with rice, okra, plantain and onion, while my parents indulged in the huge and meaty lobster and the divine paella. The portion sizes at Iván Chef Justo are more than generous so much so that we did not have room for dessert.

CUBA’S DANCE CULTURE

European melody and verse. African rhythms and percussion. Mix together and you get the rich and varied music styles pulsating through Cuba.

The origins of Cuba’s music and dance scene dates back to the time of colonisation, when Spanish settlers brought with them new instruments such as guitars and violins. When met with Afro-Cuban culture, such forms of Spanish music developed to create punto campesino (peasant dances)- including the zapateo, yambú and danzón.

Danzón, now the official dance of Cuba, was developed in the late 19th century. It is slow, elegant and traditionally characterised by the man holding the woman’s hands high as he leads her through a series of matching steps. Other Cuban dance styles include the well-known casino (Cuban-style salsa), Guaguancó (a rumba), Son, Mambo, Bolero, Latin Jazz and Timba.

No matter where you are in Cuba, you will always be able to find a small venue playing live, high quality music.

Simply stroll the streets of Habana Vieja on a steamy Saturday night and you will be sure to come across a charming bar full of tourists and locals moving to the music alike. The one noticeable difference between the two groups: rhythm- Cubans live and breathe dance and you most certainly can tell. Dance is even part of the national elementary school curriculum in Cuba.

For a chance to sit back and watch the professionals take the spotlight, visit Centro Cultural El Gran Palenque, situated in Vedado. Founded in 1962, the centre specialises in Afro-Cuban dancing, hosting a dynamic three hour show, Sábado de la Rumba, each Saturday. The renowned Conjunto Folflórico Nacional de Cuba command the stage not only at this venue, but at Teatro Mella, as well as internationally. Centro Cultural El Gran Palenque additionally puts on the FolkCuba festival biannually, during January and July.

The magnificently ornate Gran Teatro de la Habana ‘Alicia Alonso’, situated on Parque Central, is the home of Cuban National Ballet. Despite being closed for several years for intense restoration, the theatre reopened its doors in 2016, adding star ballerina and choreographer Alicia Alonso’s name to the building’s title.

The International Ballet Festival takes place here every two years and companies from all over Cuba, as well as abroad, take to the stage each weekend to perform a range of dance styles including ballet and contemporary. Daily guided tours are available at the price of CUC$5 and run from 9:15am-12:15pm. Inside you can explore the 1,500-seat main hall, art gallery and concert hall.

What’s a visit to Cuba without a show at the old-school cabaret Tropicana? Located in the Miramar neighbourhood, this open-air nightclub puts on performances every week, Monday-Sunday, from 8:30pm-12:30am- note that the show does not start until 10pm but complementary drinks and snacks are served as soon as you step foot through the door. Watch flamboyant dancers in feather headdresses kick up their legs under tropical palms and glistening lights, as the live orchestra fills the air with energetic song.

If you’re visiting in August, Carnaval de la Habana presents a chance to be a part of a celebration of Cuba’s diverse music and dance culture. Along the Malecón parades of dancers in colourful costumes move to the sounds of beating drums and cheerful song.

Click here for your own walking tour of Habana Vieja!