A Walking Tour of Habana Vieja

By Ieva Staveckaite

The capital’s original colonial core, Habana Vieja, has continued to undergo restoration since the early 1990s.

In an effort to preserve key historical relics whilst continuing to develop the urban community who have made a home of the historic centre, Leal Spengler, Havana City Historian and director of the restoration program, set up Habaguanex in 1994. This holding company earns money through tourism in order to reinvest it into the preservation effort, alongside a variety of social projects.

Schools, committees, care homes for seniors and centres for children with disabilities have been established as a result. So, every time you spend money at a Habana Vieja hotel, restaurant, bar, or museum, you are essentially contributing to the rebuilding of a historical legacy, as well as the establishment of a new one.

Habana Vieja can be explored most simply by strolling between the four main colonial squares that make up the area.

PLAZA DE ARMAS

The oldest of Habana Vieja’s squares, Plaza de Armas was established in the 1520s, soon after the city’s foundation.

In the 18th and 19th centuries it was the seat of government for all of Havana. The opulent colonial palace, Palacio de los Capitanes which takes up the entire Western side of the plaza, was once the official residence for the Spanish Governors of Cuba, and it even briefly became the presidential palace at the beginning of the 20th century. Today, it houses the Museo de la Ciudad (Museum of the City), open from 9:30 am- 6 pm, and costing CUC$3 to explore.

Escaping the crowds of tourists at Plaza de Armas can seem impossible, especially during the peak months, but panoramic views of the square, and much of Habana Vieja, can be enjoyed from the rooftop bar located in Hotel Amribos Mundos.

Here you can kick back, sip on a refreshing Mojito and not worry about being swarmed by tourists. Look out for the remarkable marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes (the man who set Cuba on the road to independence in 1868), which stands in the centre of the square, lined with royal palms- Cuba’s national tree.

Don’t forget to take a moment to explore Havana’s biggest and best second-hand book market which takes place on each of the four surrounding roads leading to the plaza.

PLAZA VIEJA:

To the south of Plaza de Armas, you will find Plaza Vieja, where one of Cuba’s most prevalent architectural styles (Baroque) nestles seamlessly beside Gaudí- inspired art nouveau.

The square encapsulates the restoration effort perfectly- many of the buildings making up the plaza’s colourful borders have been transformed into educational and cultural institutions, while others continue to house residents.

Over the last decade, a central fountain has been erected, a museum has been opened, along with a planetarium, a rooftop camera obscura, a photography gallery, a primary school and a number of shops and restaurants.

PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS:

Plaza de San Francisco de Asís gets its name from the Convent of St. Francis of Assisi built here between 1575-1591.

The plaza faces Havana’s harbour- it is located directly opposite the cruise ship terminal Sierra Maestra Station. It was first established when Spanish galleons docked in the port on their passage through the colonies.

With many wealthy merchants deciding to build their stunning homes facing the centre of the plaza, the colonial architecture of the square is something which cannot go unappreciated. There are a number of impressive statues dotted around the square, including the Fuente de Los Leones (Fountain of The Lions) made in white marble in 1836 by Italian sculptor Giuseppe Guggini.

PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL:

The ‘newest’ of the four main plazas owes its name to the beautiful, baroque cathedral which takes centre stage amongst some of the city’s most impressive colonial architecture.

Catedral de la Habana was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini and was officially finished in 1789. Esteemed for its unusual swirling façade, the cathedral is considered to be the pinnacle of Cuban baroque architecture. Whilst general entry is free, you can climb the smaller of the cathedral’s two towers for just CUC$1. Catedral de la Habana is open to visitors from 9am-4:30pm Monday-Friday, and 9am-12pm Saturday and Sunday.

The grand buildings which surround the Cathedral all date back to the 1700s. The Palacio de los Condes de Casa Bayona (directly opposite the cathedral) is one of the oldest houses in the city, now hosting the Museo De Arte Colonial (open from 9:30 am -4:45 pm daily and costing CUC$2 to enter).

On the east, stands Casa de Lombillo which too houses a number of art galleries, as well as Casa del Marques which used to function as a post office (a post box remains on the outside wall).

Of notable beauty, is the Palacio de los Marqueses de Aguas Claras. Completed in 1760, this majestic palace is known best for its leafy inner courtyard and stunning vitrales (stained-glass windows). Today, it is home to the Restaurante Paris, where meals are often accompanied by live music drifting in from the square. It is also important to know that a number of Habana Vieja’s top restaurants line a small alley (Calle-jón del Chorto) just off the plaza.

Run out of things to do in Havana? Check out my day trip to Viñales Valley!