Homestay in The Heart of Habana Vieja
By Ieva Staveckaite
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982, Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is an architectural playground made up of colonial mansions, sixteenth-century fortresses, cobbled plazas and wide boulevards. It is the very site where the city of Havana was first established in 1591 and remains to this day a true vision of the past. With many of Havana’s top sightseeing destinations condensed into a compact area, easily reached by foot, Habana Vieja seems the perfect location to set up camp while touring Cuba’s capital.
The most common, and authentic, form of accommodation within Havana is a Casa Particular. Essentially a Cuban term for Bed and Breakfast, Casas Particulares have evolved over the years to include a wider range of options from full houses and apartments, to rooms in Cuban family homes.
Costing typically between CUC$20-40 per night, Casas Particulares can be found by simply asking around. Notably in Habana Vieja you will find locals advertising their homes right on the street, but it is best to book such accommodation at least one week in advance during non-peak seasons, and about 2-3 months before during the peak summer months. Do not forget to account for an additional charge if you would like a homemade breakfast to be included.
There are a great number of advantages that come from choosing to stay at a Casa Particular over a hotel for example:
Insider Tips- With hosts that have lived in specific neighbourhoods for a number of years, if not their whole lives, comes essential and extremely helpful information such as where to find good quality, Cuban cuisine at an inexpensive price, or when best to visit major tourist attractions to avoid the crowds.
Support local business- The continuance of government rationing has meant that Cubans are provided essential supplies by the state. As a result, the average salary in Cuba, around $20 a month, remains what you may consider to be very low. As a way to supplement their income, many Cubans have begun to run their own small businesses. Something which was only made possible due to official restrictions on such enterprises being relaxed with the growth of Cuba’s tourism sector. Staying at a Casa Particular is not especially expensive, yet the seemingly low rate you pay benefits small business owners significantly.
Differing choice in locations- Running a Casa Particular is pretty common amongst Havana’s residents, meaning there is an abundance of locations to choose from depending on where you would prefer to base yourself, or which part of the city you want to focus on exploring.
Comfort- Cubans are known for their hospitality. Not only does staying in a family home offer a greater amount of comfort, but also the possibility to immerse yourself in Cuban life. Hosts often invite guests to share in family meals and friendly get-togethers- an opportunity you would not find when staying at a hotel.
Casa Particular Idania:
Located on Habana Vieja’s busiest street, Calle Obispo, at the heart of it all, is the Casa Particular my family and I stayed in during the Havana part of our Cuban getaway.
Casa Particular Idania is a beautiful Colonial style home, featuring high ceilings, spacious rooms with ornamented glass doors and large balconies overlooking the narrow streets full of life below. It’s defining detail- bright and colourful mosaic tiles stretching across the first floor, from the outside terrace, through the living room to the kitchen.
Adapted to meet modern needs, the five rooms of the Casa are equipped with a fridge, security box, television, air conditioning system and hot water in the private bathrooms.
The rooms on the first floor, in which we stayed, share an adjoining bathroom. Each features a queen-sized bed, a large hanging mirror and plenty of storage space. For more privacy, the studio on the top floor is equipped with its own kitchen, bathroom and salon. From the outside terrace, the unmissable gold tip of El Capitolio can be seen shining brightly.
Wi-Fi can be accessed upon request and at an extra charge- the host will help you to set it up. Idania, in particular, is very friendly, eager to make sure all your needs are met. However, as is common in Cuba, the workers at this Casa speak very few words in English, meaning knowledge of basic Spanish or the purchase of a phrasebook is essential.
Homemade breakfast can be arranged for only CUC$5 per person. Take in the morning rush as the city awakens, from the outside terrace, while fuelling up for the day on fresh fruit-an assortment of papaya, watermelon, banana and pineapple, as well as eggs any way you would like them. Delicious juices and smoothies are also on offer, not to mention steaming hot coffee.
Despite its central location, only steps away from prime tourist attractions such as Parque Central, Casa Particular Idania, remains sheltered from the rumbles of traffic nearby and the rhythms of live bands playing on restaurant and bar fronts deep into the night. Clean, comfortable and safe, the one disadvantage posed by this Casa is its lack of easy access. In order to reach the home, a steep stairwell must be climbed, meaning it may not be suitable for those with impaired mobility.
Overall, choosing to stay in a Casa Particular meant, for me and my family, a unique immersion into Havana culture and city life. Viewing Cuba from the perspective of a local was a true privilege. The conveniently located Casa Idania Particular ensured that Havana’s must-see sights, as well as top restaurants and bars were only ever a short distance away. Anything we would ever need or want was right on our doorstep!
Click here for the top 5 things to do in Central Havana!