4 Perfect Days in Madeira — The Travel Tea

By Ieva Staveckaite

Madeira, Pearl of the Atlantic, the island of eternal spring, is situated closer to North Africa than mainland Portugal itself. Warmed year-round by the Atlantic sun, Madeira promises a subtropical holiday no matter what time of year. While hottest temperatures are felt in August and September, January and February still see heights of 19°C. But beware of the micro-climates! Madeira’s geographic location means that you could be relishing in the sun’s golden rays one minute, and fleeing from chilly (temporary) rainfall the next.

With a landscape made up of a rugged coastline, high-rising cliffs, lush valleys and volcanic beaches, Madeira is characteristically and beautifully dramatic. Scenery across the island is vastly varied, but the one constant ensured by the marvellous spring climate is an abundance of greenery. From exotic flowers to intriguing fruits and towering cacti, Madeira has it all, set out in a kaleidoscope of colour.

When visiting Madeira, my family and I based ourselves in Funchal at the Madeira Panoramico Hotel. From its hilltop position on the west of Funchal, Madeira Panoramico overlooks the mountains, city and the sea. Its prime location makes it a short 5 minute drive from the centre of Funchal, yet the hotel itself, tucked away behind the hills, retains a tranquil atmosphere free from the buzz of city life.

The rooms, though a tad bit outdated, are spacious and each have a balcony from which the splendid surroundings can be enjoyed. The hotel also boasts a heated outdoor and indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish baths, gym, squash court and tennis courts. Of particular note is the hotel’s excellent restaurant- travelling during the time of COVID meant there were fewer visitors at Madeira Panoramico which in turn meant the expected buffet-style dinner service was replaced by a four course set menu that changed daily. With new dishes each day came fresh and flavoursome ingredients, tastes of local cuisine and a guaranteed delightful evening.

*This guide has been created with a hire car in mind, but if this is not at your disposal or in your budget do not worry- Madeira is a small island well connected, with buses and taxis available to take you to any destination*

DAY 1:

Idyllic. A word that perfectly encapsulates the atmosphere at Praia da Prainha (Caniçal) early in the morning, when the usual crowds of sun-lovers and locals have yet to claim their spot on this small, volcanic sand beach. With a landscape painted in shades of dusky orange, yellow and brown, Praia da Prainha offers a stark contrast to the lush greens found all over the island.

The beach itself is pretty well hidden within a cove- unless you know exactly where it is, you wouldn’t be able to spot it from the main road. Parking is available in the lay-by and once you have found a spot, a steep walk down a hill awaits you. But, I promise you it’s worth it! A quick dip in the surprisingly warm sea is sure to revitalise your worked-out body. Spend the rest of the morning experiencing true bliss, soaking in the warmth of the sun, listening to the waves lapping at the shoreline.

A morning spent in the water is sure to work up an appetite. Head to Muralha’s Bar (also located in Caniçal) for mouth-wateringly good seafood that is sourced locally. Dishes are prepared simply but pack in lots of flavour and the portions are more than generous. Better yet, the meals are really cheap! Taste Madeira’s staple espada (scabbardfish), or my personal favourites: calamari and mussels drenched in butter and topped with plenty of garlic.

Hunger satisfied, it’s time to continue your search for Madeira’s best beach. Just a 10 minute drive from Funchal city centre is Praia Formosa, a serene stretch of coastline made up of 3 small black sand beaches and a larger pebbled beach. Giant rock formations make for a dramatic backdrop against the cyan-coloured waters, and terracotta-roofed houses stand tall on what seems the very edge of the surrounding cliffs.

Praia Formosa is well serviced with snack bars situated along the promenade. In fact, the bars are what make this beach a popular night-life spot. If you’re feeling up to it, a stroll to the very end of the promenade will lead you to Câmara de Lobos- one of Madeira’s earliest settlements, or you could stay on Formosa, cocktail in hand, and watch the afternoon warm, apricot glow fade into a starry black.

DAY 2:

The lifeblood of the entire island, Madeira’s levadas refer to 2,500 km of irrigation channels along which walkways lead through enchanting landscapes. At least one levada hike must be pencilled into your holiday schedule- it is the quintessential Madeira experience after all!

Not only are the leavadas an engineering triumph, supplying taps with water and homes and businesses with electricity through hydroelectric power, they crisscross throughout the island’s interior creating access between different areas. So pack up your torch (you’re going to need it), a map or guidebook, put on your waterproofs and gear up for a day of outdoor adventure.

With so many different trails across different regions, it can be difficult to decide which one to take. The tourist office in Funchal can help out with planning, and you can always ask your hotel reception for a list of tours. Online bus timetables are available for all Madeira bus companies, and many of the routes have been designed to incorporate levada hikers so you needn’t worry about restricted bus times. Hiring a car can make access a lot easier but it is important to remember that levada walks are linear routes. You may need to get a bus or taxi back to where you originally parked. Group half or full-day hikes are another option. A group full-day hike typically costs €25 and includes transfers to and from your accommodation.

LEVADA TRAIL PR17:

Up high amidst a carpet of clouds and cooling misty air is where walking route PR17 begins. This 15.5 km trail starting at Lombo do Mouro on the regional highway E.R. 110 and ending at the Encumeada junction E.R. 228, is considered to be on the difficult side. It is predicted to take 6hrs and 30 mins to complete, reaching a max altitude of 1490m. While this all may sound a little daunting, a day spent walking the levadas of Serra and Norte is a day to most definitely remember! Just make sure to come prepared. Pack up a picnic lunch- there are numerous benches dotted along the track, wear sturdy footwear and stay hydrated with plenty of water.

PR17 is a true hiker’s paradise, a serene escape across a variety of scenic environments. Sweeping views down over São Vicente Valley set the route off to a spectacular start. As you pass through the mystical Laurissilva forest, breathe in the sweet scent of eucalyptus trees and camphor plants. Surrounded by a sea of vibrant greens and deep browns, look out for hidden beauties in the form of small plants endemic to the archipelago. Madeiran orchids bloom a vivid violet, canary buttercups a luminous yellow and the mandon’s chrysanthemum flower in an array of colours.

Cascades and lengthy tunnels prop up quite often along this walk. A torch is necessary for navigating the dark and damp passages- spooky at first, but a refreshing refuge from the blazing sun on hot days. When you reach the top of the footpath at Pináculo, the impressive Central Mountain Range will come into view. This is where the island’s two highest peaks, Pico do Areeiro (1817m) and Pico Ruivo (1861 m) stand out.

Emerging through the forestry at Encumeada, legs a little wobbly and feet tired, you are sure to feel a sense of accomplishment. Tackling PR17 is no joke, but the astonishing views and surreal terrain make it more than worthwhile.

What better way to reward yourself than with sip or two of the island’s favourite drink- poncha. You can taste this fermented sugar cane and fruit beverage at any of the roadside restaurants that are typically situated at the start and end of various trails.

DAY 3:

Venture out to Madeira’s rugged north coast to explore the towns of Santana, São Vicente and Porto Muniz.

It is in Porto Muniz that you can plunge into the famous natural pools made of volcanic rock. The piscinas naturais are located at both ends of the Porto Moniz seafront. Those beside the Cachalote restaurant are considered wild and are free of charge, whereas those on the opposing end charge admission but are slightly tamer making them better for swimming. A days entry for anyone over the age of 3 is just €1.50. Note that the pools are surrounded entirely by concrete walkways so hiring a sun lounger makes all the difference when it comes to comfort.

Watch the giant waves crash over the rock walls and feel the spray of the salty sea as you float by in this natural wonder. Relish in the sun’s warming rays and take in the stunning, panoramic view over the sea coast. The piscinas naturais are not to be missed!

For lunch head to the cozy Conchinha café situated just across the road from the natural pools. Sit outside on the roof terrace to enjoy your delicious meal with a breathtaking sea view. Conchinha specialises in sandwiches served on traditional bolo do caco bread- a flat, circular-shaped bread with a hard, but thin crust and a soft, airy inside. It is smothered in garlic butter and has a slightly sweet taste due to the sweet potato mashed into the dough. Conchinha has a large variety of vegetarian options, freshly squeezed juices and a passionfruit cheesecake to die for!

Now picture a stunning stretch of black sand set against the vibrant green of a mountain backdrop and the crystal blue of the sea. Add in a number of waterfalls, pouring down in the crevasses of the mountain ridge and you’ll start to understand why Seixal beach is such a hit.

Located between São Vicente and Porto Moniz, Seixal retains its popularity due to the rarity of sand beaches across the island- Madeira’s shorelines are largely covered in pebbles and rocks. The area also features its own volcanic pools- Poças das Lesmas and is the perfect place to surf some mild waves. For those seeking out adventure sports, http://www.madeiraoutdoor.com/en/ is able to arrange a wide variety of activities from paragliding, kayaking and surfing, to canyoning, trekking and climbing.

DAY 4:

Depart the city at Funchal’s Old Town and climb the slopes to the suburb of Monte in one of Madeira’s cable cars. In just 15-20 minutes you’ll reach great heights, journeying over courtyards, classic orange-roofed homes and bustling streets. Round trip adult tickets cost €16, but if you’d like to explore Madeira’s botanical gardens, the combined ticket is €25.40. Once the cable car arrives at the Monte station, you will need to take a second car to the gardens. This journey roughly takes 9 minutes.

Jardins Botânicos da Madeira is packed with the most exotic collection of plant life in Europe, making it a botanical garden like few others. Panoramic views of the island at amazing heights, flora of unparalleled beauty and plenty of photo opportunities are all on offer at this top tourist attraction. Those seeking serenity are sure to delight in this tranquil corner of Madeira.

Visiting hours are from 9am-6pm daily and entrance costs just €6. The garden itself covers 80,000 sq metres and ranges in levels rising 150m above sea level in some areas and 300m in others. The main entrance is situated right at the top so that you make your way down, exploring the different collections, and once at the bottom turn right back and begin to hike up, enjoying the astonishing views of the island one step at a time.

Look out for the displays of flora endemic to the archipelago, as well as the wonderful succulents and cacti collection, the palm tree garden, the topiary section and the famed shrub garden mosaic. A beautiful arrangement of deep reds, purples and greens, the mosaic makes the perfect backdrop to any photo.

Having reached the very top, don’t miss out on discovering one of the garden’s hidden gems. To the left of the entrance gates lies The Lover’s Cave, a rocky grotto lined with ferns. Inside is a table and set of chairs made of volcanic pebbles, from which you can take one last mental picture of stunning Madeira from this exceptional height.

When heading back to the cable cars, it is imperative to stop off at Pa’tio das Babosas for a well-deserved snack break.

Despite being located in a tourist hotspot, this restaurant is a real treasure and a completely unexpected one at that. Serving scrumptious breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner with a marvellous view, Pa’tio das Babosas is equipped to satisfy any level of hunger. Be sure to leave room for dessert- dishes are presented beautifully and taste equally great. This charming little restaurant is sure to leave an impression, making you wish it wasn’t a cable car ride away.

Once back in the heart of Madeira, head to Mercado dos Lavradores. Booming with business from early morning to late afternoon, Funchal’s main market is popular with both curious tourists and returning locals. Built in 1940 by architect Edmundo Tavares, Mercado dos Lavradores has retained the majority of its original features, including its intricate azulejos (hand-painted tiles) sourced from the mainland.

Upon entrance to the market, visitors are met with local women in folk costume selling exotic and enchanting flowers. The estrelícia (bird of paradise) is the most striking choice- vibrant orange, cutting blue and hints of purple paint the plant’s unique flowers.

In the central courtyard, the dazzling display of colour continues, spilling out across the fruit stalls. For every fruit you recognise, there’ll be one you don’t. Curious hybrids are bound to catch your eye, and stall owners are often eager to offer you a taste. Amongst those grown on Madeiran soil are anone (custard apples), banana ananaz (monstera), tomate inglês (tamarillo) and of course the island’s signature miniature bananas.

If you visit early enough and make it in time for the fish market, you’ll notice large arrangements of a peculiar eel-like creature spread out on beds of ice. Despite its slippery and rather scary exterior, the fish known as espada (scabbardfish), is a staple of the island, often prepared with sweet Madeiran bananas and wild rice or salad. It is caught at night deep below the surface of the Atlantic and is a definite must-try and a feature of almost every restaurant menu.

Throughout the year, Mercado dos Lavradores hosts various foodie events, so be sure to check the tourist office calendar when visiting.